A venue in Hackney that once served traditional pie and mash has been converted into a tavern and is now encountering resistance to its proposal for extended opening hours.
The Black Eel began trading in October in the Grade II listed building that previously housed F Cooke’s on Kingsland High Street.
The proprietors, Exale Brew Pub Co, preserved the historic storefront originating from the 1900s while reconfiguring the inside into an establishment featuring darts, shuffleboard, table football, and an expansive beer garden equipped with a petanque area.
The name pays homage to the jellied eels previously sold at the location, though the cuisine prepared by chef Billy Fisher draws on Mediterranean influences, offering dishes such as grilled courgette with feta and chilli, marinated tomatoes with goats curd, pork ribs with hot honey, and braised chuck with flatbread.
Amidst what they describe as economic difficulties including escalating business rates, management has sought permission to keep the venue operating until 1.30am on Thursdays, Fridays, and Saturdays to improve competitiveness with other nearby establishments.
They state this arrangement would also result in customers departing in a more staggered fashion rather than all together.
The operators have previously accepted licensing restrictions, including a limit on patrons permitted to stand while drinking. However, the current application for later opening has faced opposition from a local resident concerned about noise and disturbance from those gathered outside.
He has provided a photograph depicting crowds gathered outside a different establishment, Tipsy, situated approximately five minutes walk from The Black Eel.
Claiming to speak for fellow residents, at a Hackney Council licensing panel hearing on August 11, the man highlighted what he considered an absence of a strategy for managing patrons, contending that an extended licence would encourage neighbouring venues to behave similarly.
The resident has previously lodged objections to two licensing modifications sought by The Black Eel, including one where management agreed to restrict standing customers to no more than 50 people.
On this occasion, he chose to remain unidentified, stating that publicly opposing was perilous due to threats from the pub’s supporters.
Clarifying that he does not reside immediately next to The Black Eel, the resident indicated that drinkers gathering outside the venue posed problems for pedestrians navigating the high street or anyone wishing to open a window during warm weather without enduring noise from large crowds.
While The Black Eel does feature a spacious beer garden, the proprietor Andy Solley maintained that the venue had no outdoor seating or queuing at the front.
He emphasised that the establishment was not a nightclub and lacked a DJ, with customers leaving progressively over time.
The Dalston pie and mash establishment commenced operations in 1910, with the rear dining area added in 1936.
English Heritage notes that the former pie and mash shop represents an uncommon surviving example of an establishment type once prevalent throughout London, featuring original elements such as a marble counter, marble display risers for presenting eels, a gold-lettered sign with stained glass, glazed tiles, panels depicting boats gathering catches, and wooden benches likely dating from the 1930s.
After providing meals of jellied eels and pie, mash and parsley sauce to the Dalston community for many years, the shop ceased trading in 1996.
The following year it became Shanghai Chinese restaurant and for a considerable period remained a Dalston landmark.
Hackney Council’s licensing committee is anticipated to reach a verdict on The Black Eel’s request within five working days following the hearing.