A new BBQ establishment has opened beside the canal at Hackney Wick, bringing serious smoked meat to east London.
The venue is run by former record shop proprietor turned chef Man Hon Luk, who has taken on the premises formerly occupied by zero waste restaurant Silo above Crate Brewery.
Remarkably, he funded the entire project using poker winnings after developing a passion for the lengthy, low-temperature Texas smoking method that produces exceptionally tender results.
His introduction to this cooking style came during a 2021 visit to Austin, Texas for a card game competition, where he discovered what would become Interstellar, a future Michelin-starred venue, and convinced pitmaster John Bates to share his expertise.
The setting maintains a relaxed atmosphere with a warm greeting, though the true spectacle lies in the visually stunning and appetite-satisfying food on offer at this 80-cover establishment.
The Hong Kong-raised cook has incorporated Asian influences to create bold, palate-awakening flavours throughout the menu.
The venue has a distinctly east London character, accessible via an open courtyard from Hackney Wick station, leading past graffiti-covered canal walls and up to a stark white industrial interior furnished with red classroom-style tables and wooden seating.
Unsurprisingly, an open kitchen dominates the space, with cooks tending to cuts of meat above glowing coals, while vinyl records spin on a turntable, contributing to the easygoing, convivial atmosphere.
Staying true to his musical retail background, Man Hon Luk intends to host DJs as the venue transitions into a music-focused bar during weekend evenings.
During a scorching English summer, the chilled bottles of rosé and glasses of Crémant were consumed at an impressive pace.
The real highlights, however, are the aromatic and colourful presentations delivered on metal platters laden with slow-cooked proteins.
The restaurant’s melt-in-your-mouth slow smoked duck, sliced and wrapped in pancakes with rich hoisin and spring onions, elevates the familiar favourite to new heights.
The slow cooked beef short rib comes highly recommended.
Expect to use the word tender frequently here, whether describing the soft, perfectly seasoned glazed pork belly, the eight-hour braised ox cheeks, or the Sichuan beef short ribs, where the spiciness is balanced by the extended cooking process and served alongside roasted chili and garlic.
The side dishes demand attention: roasted cauliflower resting on creamed corn, macaroni and cheese enhanced with crispy pork crackling, flavorful green beans dressed in a chili and spice mixture, and a refreshing cucumber salad with pink pickled onions to cut through the rich meat juices.
Opening courses featured delicate slices of smoked tofu alongside a fresh tomato salad, with dessert consisting of a cooling coconut cream pud topped with mango coulis. However, if selecting just one option, the generous sharing platters of succulent meats come most highly recommended.
Hons BBQ is located at Unit 7 Queen’s Yard, Hackney Wick E9.